Mary’s, London W1- ‘New name, new menu, softer edges’ – restaurant review – Grace Dent on restaurants

Interviewer: Mary’s has quite the reputation, and it seems like a refreshing concept in London’s dining scene. Could you share what inspired this transition from Pollen Street Social to Mary’s?

Chef Jason Atherton: Absolutely! Our aim was to create a relaxed atmosphere where guests could feel at home—shoes off, hairpins tossed aside. We wanted it to be a spot for everyone, whether you’re coming by for a pre-theater meal or a leisurely lunch.

Interviewer: The name “Mary’s” might suggest something more casual than a Michelin-starred background. How do you think diners are responding to this shift in the dining experience?

Chef Jason Atherton: That’s a great question. It’s a balance, for sure. Some diners have expressed nostalgia for the formal dining experience, with its intricate presentations. When we introduced items like “Mary’s dirty burger” and opted for a more laid-back vibe, I could almost hear people reminiscing about their lavish meals from years past. But we feel the change really opens up the space to a wider audience.

Interviewer: It seems like there’s still a level of sophistication in your offerings. How do you maintain that elegance in such a casual setting?

Chef Jason Atherton: We absolutely want to keep that level of quality. The dining space is bright and stylish, with an elegant interior and attentive service. Our menu features impressive dishes like Lyonnaise onion agnolotti and Orkney scallops, so while we’ve relaxed the atmosphere, our focus on high-quality cuisine remains.

Interviewer: You’ve expanded your culinary empire significantly. How has that impacted your vision for Mary’s?

Chef Jason Atherton: Expansion has been pivotal for us. While some may miss the old Pollen Street Social, we’re excited about the direction Mary’s is taking. We’re leveraging our experience to make it a delightful dining experience that’s approachable without compromising on quality.

Interviewer: What can guests expect when they dine at Mary’s?

Chef Jason Atherton: Guests can look forward to generous portions and flavors that indulge the senses. Dishes like the tempura monkfish with homemade tartare sauce and the duck breast hash in satay sauce are crowd favorites. We want everyone to enjoy hearty meals without holding back.

Interviewer: And desserts? They sound quite indulgent from your previous descriptions!

Chef Jason Atherton: Oh, they certainly are! The warm doughnut filled with calvados custard is a must-try, and the Basque cheesecake infused with orange and chocolate is simply divine. We want our guests to leave with smiles on their faces!

Interviewer: Lastly, what’s next for you and Mary’s?

Chef Jason Atherton: The journey is just beginning. As we continue to innovate and expand, our focus remains on creating enjoyable and flavorful experiences. I can only imagine what the future holds, but for now, we’re just excited to serve up amazing food and welcome guests to our table.

Interviewer: Thank you, Chef Atherton. We look forward to experiencing Mary’s firsthand!

Chef Jason Atherton: My pleasure! Hope to see you soon at Mary’s!