The Devonshire, London W1- ‘The epitome of comfort food’ – restaurant review – Grace Dent on restaurants
What makes a pub truly special? According to Grace Dent, the charm of The Devonshire in Soho lies in its authenticity and dedication to providing a classic pub experience. Celebrating its anniversary on Bonfire Night, this establishment has quickly earned a reputation beyond just being another watering hole.
In an interview, Dent captures the essence of The Devonshire, noting it’s not just about the drinks and food, but the atmosphere that envelops its patrons. “This is a place where you can enjoy a straightforward yet delightful meal — think Guinness, steak and chips, and indulgent sticky toffee pudding,” she explains. Yet, the allure extends beyond the menu. Celebrity sightings have graced the establishment, with the likes of Ed Sheeran and Nigella Lawson spotted enjoying a bite, but Dent insists that the pub remains grounded and accessible.
In a world where many pubs falter in quality with subpar offerings, The Devonshire stands out. “It’s a refreshing change,” she remarks. “They bake their own perfectly golden bread rolls, source premium meats from their in-house butcher, and even offer a private room where you can enjoy live music without the distraction of smartphones.” This commitment to quality has drawn visitors from all corners, creating a buzz that consistently fills its tables.
During her recent visit on a bustling Tuesday lunchtime, Dent described the menu as delightfully straightforward yet impressive. “I couldn’t resist the prawn and crayfish cocktail, served in a sundae glass with a decadent marie-rose sauce,” she recalls, highlighting the restaurant’s modern approach to classic dishes. She also raved about the beef chop, which is served in generous portions perfect for sharing, alongside comforting sides like creamy leeks and pommes purée.
“The food felt like a warm embrace,” Dent notes, emphasizing the satisfaction derived from hearty comfort food. Even desserts like the sticky toffee pudding and rich chocolate mousse reflect a refined touch amidst the comforting offerings.
But what truly sets The Devonshire apart in London’s vibrant pub scene? Dent believes it’s the spirit of the place: a nod to the past where patrons can unwind, socialize, and enjoy life’s simple pleasures without the pressure of modern expectations. “It’s not just the food or drink — it’s how you feel while you’re here,” she says. As The Devonshire continues to thrive, it seems poised to uphold this beloved tradition for years to come.
